When it comes to the DMC thread companies’ history, most of us know that the 90s were a big boon time for the company, with a variety of new threads coming out, one of them being variations or variegated threads. But the history of DMC variation threads is far older than you think…
How Old Are DMC Variation Threads?
Most of us have assumed for the longest time that these threads were from the 90s, but thanks to a recent find, we now know that DMC was creating 6-strand, divisible embroidery threads all the way back in 1954. We also know that due to the dated DMC labels, and the known Pearl Cotton variations threads, that production likely started between 1950 and 1954.
However, we do know that before 1958, one or more variations threads from DMC were discontinued, suggesting that the range was closer to 1954.
This isn’t actually very shocking if you look into other thread companies during this period, as there is a lot of evidence that non-DMC thread companies offered variegated or color-changing threads before the 1960s.
One notable example is within the Brazilian embroidery movement, which began in the early 1960s. Elisa Hirsch Maia, an avid embroiderer from Brazil, experimented with vivid dyes and color variegations, leading to the development of a popular range of rayon threads. This act contributed to the establishment of the Varicor Company, which specialized in these threads.
However, it was long suspected that Varicor was not the first to create these variation threads for embroidery; with DMC possibly taking that crown.
Why Did We Think They Were From The 90s?
Well, we actually knew that variations threads were much older, dating back to the late 1940s, and DMC themselves even made a series for their Pearl Cotton range (at the time, only in size 8), which still goes today. However, there was very little evidence to suggest any of these variation threads existed before the 90s, when a purge of known variegated threads happened (numbers 48 to 126).
We know this purge was most likely due to dye formulation laws in the EU, similar to the reason some threads were sold in the US only, and we know that a raft of new thread ranges were introduced such as variations, variegated and light effect threads. Therefore, it made sense that the variations ranges most likely dated to the early 90s.
To back this up, the only ‘vintage’ threads that were found were all housing labels from the 90s. And finally, the first known variations DMC color card was released in 1991.
That was, until we found some from the 1950s. Specifically, a series of threads that included previously unknown threads like 64 “apricot coral”.
History of DMC Variation & Variegated Threads
So with this new information in tow, what does the history of these DMC threads actually look like? Well, thanks to a lot of new product launches and discontinuations, the history of variegated DMC threads is an unusual one.
1950-1958
The DMC company creates up to 150 variation threads (exact number not known, but possibly 100)
The exact number of threads isn’t known. We do have a list of 39 threads created at a time, but the numbering system suggests there could be up to 150.
The threads are produced in Pearl Cotton and embroidery thread ranges.
1958
The first series of variation threads are discontinued.
The exact reason is unknown, but DMC moves out of the French-only market and later merges with Thiriez and Cartier-Bresson.
The exact number of discontinued threads is unknown.
1990
DMC renames variated thread into two groups: “variations” and “variegated”, splitting the threads from its “solid color” threads.
1996
After 38 years DMC choose to discontinue 38 variegated threads, most likely due to poor sales.
1997
The US DMC factory opened, producing some unique threads over the time it was open.
1998
A further 11 of the variegated threads were discontinued under their previous numbers, releasing under the new “E” threads known as “Light Effects”.
All threads remain in production.
2013
An additional 24 variegated threads were discontinued.
In addition, the US factory worked with a series of license holders and created a limited edition Just Cross Stitch variegated thread.
2016
DMC launches the new Coloris threads featuring more dramatic color shifts than previous variation threads.
Modern Curiosities and Limited Editions
Before we wrap up, we also wanted to draw your attention to a few other threads that make the story of variation threads a little more interesting.
Whilst variations have regularly been discontinued, the DMC thread company keeps trying to come up with new ranges within the space, such as the more modern Coloris range, or even the likes of the limited edition Just Cross Stitch variation thread. I think we’re a long way from the last days of variations, even if DMC seems to have been struggling with them since 1950!
Shout out to Dana Staab for getting in contact with us with some photos that sparked our investigation on these threads!
Happy stitching,
Lord Libidan