How To Store Finished Cross Stitch (6 Ways)

cross stitch storage

Whilst some pieces are destined to be framed, there are other finished pieces that just aren’t. That’s not to say they suck, but you JUST HAVE TOO MANY!!!
Cross stitch is addictive, and so you will inevitably need to store some pieces temporarily/permanently. And whilst out of sight out of mind is a great way to think sometimes, finished cross stitch sometimes needs a helping hand. In particular, you could get all types of awful things, like rust spots, water damage or warping if not properly stored. But you can fix them with this quick guide on how to remove stains from cross stitch.
There are two accepted ways to store cross stitch, and I tend to use both for different reasons as sadly neither is perfect.

Storage tubes

Kinda in the name, isn’t it?

Cheap, easy to store and crease free, cardboard tubes can be a super idea for cross stitch storage (source: Google images)
Cheap, easy to store and crease free, cardboard tubes can be a super idea for cross stitch storage (source: Google images)

Now I would ALWAYS suggest sending pieces in storage tubes, however, they are also a great longer-term option. The great thing about them if you can stack them either on top of each other, strapped together, or even better, in a box. I bet you didn’t realize that all tubes are designed to fit into a 1x1x1.5m box in the most optimal way possible? Well, now you do!
However, there are downsides.
The first thing to note is you need to cover the tubes. Most tubes are cardboard, and so water CAN go through them. In addition, if the ends are left open you could get moths moving in. The easiest method is cling film, however, it is still not going to protect it from a flood, so always store them high up if possible.
The second, and most irritating, is warping. Whilst the cross stitch will stay square, it curls. Heavily. In fact, the tube creates are warmth which causes the aida to permanently warp. Now, I’ve just said permanent, but in reality, you’ll be looking at maybe 10 years in a tube before its permanent. A quick ironing will be enough to clear any shaping issues up.
But this isn’t my preferred permanent storage method; that title goes to the next type of storage.

Flat portfolio storage

Portfolios are problematic from the start. Firstly, they’re HUGE, and secondly, they need to be laid flat, which can be a massive problem. Then there’s the sheer choice, why are some hard, some soft?
I can’t tell you to be honest, they just are, however they have massive positives when it comes to cross stitch storage.

A slightly fancier way to store cross stitch is a protfolio. Make sure you get one big enough though. (source: Google images)
A slightly fancier way to store cross stitch is a protfolio. Make sure you get one big enough though. (source: Google images)

  • They’re flat.
  • They split the cross stitch out so there are no threats of bugs.
  • They’re waterproof.
  • They’re naturally sun bleach proof.
  • They’re cheap.
  • They’re easy to store (once you have a space for them).

In short, so long as you can cope with the sheer size of them, they’re great. However, as they’re so good at storage, feel free to store them in a loft, under the bed, or anywhere out the way…
A few people have asked how I store my cross stitch, and I use flat portfolios. I now have three, each holds about 3 years of work. They’re A3 sized and have A3 plastic slots for larger works, and A4 for smaller ones. I also attach small stickers detailing the name, count, when it was finished, etc.

cross stitch storage
Lord Libidan’s cross stitch storage

How to frame cross stitch

Self framed cross stitch (source:

A freshly washed cross stitch is great, but unless you want to store your stitch you’ll want to show off your gorgeous piece? Well, good news for you, as Lauren of Plastic Little Covers has you covered with this perfect little guide on how best to frame cross stitch. You can also pick up the pattern used for this guide on her Etsy store.

Here’s a quick cross stitch framing tutorial for you all!

Before I start with this no doubt subpar tutorial, let me preface it with the fact that I am in no way precious about the way in which I finish a project. There are definitely neater ways to do it, so if you’re a perfectionist this mightn’t be for you! I also took the photos during the grim winter months here in the North East of England. To quote Florence & the Machine “no light, no light…”

Having said that, on the rare occasion I go all out with a frame this is the method that works for me, so here it is:

Things you’ll need:

Your ironed cross stitch with at least two inches of excess material around all edges of the design.
A photo frame
Acid-free foam board (sometimes labelled as foam core mount board). Make sure you get a colour that coordinates with your fabric, white for white etc.
Needle and strong thread (the thread in the photo was as weak as my tutorial game, so make sure you’ve got something strong enough to pull taut without snapping. I actually ended up using Anchor embroidery floss, which wasn’t ideal but just about did the job.)
Scissors (pictured are my tiny embroidery scissors, but you’d be better off using a pair of sharp haberdashery scissors for trimming your cross stitch and kitchen scissors or something similar for the mount board) It’s even better to use a proper cutter for the board, but alas! I don’t have one.

Items needed to self frame your cross stitch (source:
Items needed to self frame your cross stitch (source:

Step one:

First off you need to cut your foam board down to a suitable size for the inside of your frame. My frame was 6 x 4 inches, so I cut it to a few millimetres shy of that. You’ll want it to fit inside the frame but still have a little bit of wiggle room at the edges for when the cross stitch fabric is eventually folded around it. Check you’ve got that gap by trying the foam board in the frame, it shouldn’t be too snug or be wedged in there.

Placing pins in a cross stitch for self framing (source:
Placing pins in a cross stitch for self framing (source:

Step two:

Now that you have your expertly measured foam board at the ready, it’s time to pick up that lovely cross stitch of yours. Position it over the foam board, making sure that the design is central and level, and begin by folding the top side down. Find the middle of your design and push a pin into the foam centre of the board right on the top edge. Repeat at the bottom.

Placing a cross stitch over foam board for self framing (source:
Placing a cross stitch over foam board for self framing (source:

Step three:

Repeat Step Two, this time at the centre of the left and right sides. As you do this try to make sure that the fabric is as flat as it can be, and pulled fairly evenly across the board.

Finding the center of a completed cross stitch (source:
Finding the center of a completed cross stitch (source:

Step four:

Start working your way out from the centre, placing pins diagonally opposite each other, a couple at a time on each side. As you do this check that your design is still central and that the fabric is laying flat and taut. Continue all the way around.

Pinned down cross stitch (source:
Pinned down cross stitch (source:

Step five:

Now that you’ve finished pinning flip the whole thing over. This is where my shambolic tutorial skills once again show themselves. For reasons unknown, I’m holding the whole thing the wrong way round in the photo below. S0 what looks like top to bottom is actually side to side. * Sighs*

First layer of lattice back of a self framed cross stitch (source:
First layer of lattice back of a self framed cross stitch (source:

What you need to do is fold your sides inwards, and lace them together. I found doing the sides first is best for a flatter overall finish. For the lacing, you’re going to need a really long length of your thread, as you can see I underestimated and had to do a shoddy retying job in the middle. For my lacing, I started at about 1cm from the edge (you can go in closer to the edge than that if you want) and stitched backwards and forwards between the two sides. Pull it tight as you go, but make sure you’re not warping the board.

Step six:

If you’re still with me here then not only are you some kind of modern hero, but the end is also in sight!

At this stage fold over the top and bottom edges and lace those too.

Lattice back of a self framed cross stitch (source:
Lattice back of a self framed cross stitch (source:

As you can see my back isn’t the tidiest, but I left far more than two inches of excess around the piece and didn’t pull very tight with my stitches, so it’s all a bit bulkier than usual.

There are neater ways to finish a piece (there’s a snazzy method of folding your corners down and sewing them, which gives the whole thing a lovely finish), which I’d be happy to point you in the direction of if you’ d like to try them!

After you’ve done all of that you should find that the surface of your cross stitch is pulled nice and taut across the board and that the edges are smooth.

Step seven:

Rejoice and remove those pins!

Front of self framed cross stitch (source:
Front of self framed cross stitch (source:

Step eight:

Because you left that little bit of wiggle room at the start you should find that your cross stitch fits into the frame nice and snugly now.

Self framed cross stitch (source:
Self framed cross stitch (source:


This is just one of many ways to finish a cross stitch piece. There’s also the option of embroidery hoops and professional framing. Ultimately it’s all about personal preference and budget! If you have any questions feel free to get in touch!

Washing, Drying & Ironing

Washing cross stitch (source:

Having mastered the art of cross stitch you’re now looking to display it, however, there is often an overlooked step.
When you’ve been stitching a while you’ll find out exactly why washing is important. But even I would admit I never really gave it credit when I started, and I’ve seen the problems first hand.

It’s all about finger juice. Yeh, you heard me. More specifically the thin layer of oil around your fingers to help you grip things. This oil is fairly innocuous and doesn’t do any damage on its own, however, it bonds with the thread. When it bonds the thread takes on the same characteristics and can grip things. Specifically dirt.
To make things worse, if you leave your thread out in the sun it will brown (quite considerably). Even worse if you’ve ironed without washing!

Unless you have yourself a house trained raccoon, you have to do the washing yourself. And its not obvious as you might think, but don’t worry, its easy. So lets jump in.

Washing cross stitch (source:
Washing cross stitch (source:


The problem with washing cross stitch is that the threads and aida aren’t treated dyes like your clothes. As a result, they bleed heavily. In addition, if you use special threads like metallics or glow in the dark threads they have metals or plastics in them which react differently. But there is a tried and tested way you can clean ANY cross stitch. This is even what you need to do if you’ve got dirt on your ironed piece.

There are two things you need. Ones a bowl, big enough to hold your piece (it can be rolled to fit, but don’t fold it). The second can be slightly harder to find; non-colored, non-bleached, non-abrasive dish soap. This is actually easy to find, but its always in an obscure place to see in the supermarket, so you might have to nose around a little bit.

Once you have everything, fill the bowl with water. COLD water. The colder the better in fact. This is the thing that stops the threads from losing their color.
Add 1 drop of dish soap per 5 liters (a normal washing up bowl is about 10). Then very slowly pass your hand through the bowl to mix it, making sure no bubbles form.
Then place the cross stitch on top and let it sink. Wait 15 minutes.


That was washing. Simple as letting it sit for 15 minutes. All it does it wash the oils through so they are more dilute so won’t bond to the thread. As a result, you don’t need to rub it off the cross stitch.
However all that water has left the threads weak, and the aida very pliable. Drying the correct way is the only way to make sure the finished piece is flat. You often pull the aida out of shape slightly when stitching, and the washing will release all of that stretch, leaving your piece warped. As a result, we dry in two stages.

Firstly, it’s VERY wet, so we need to take the bulk of water off. Get a towel large enough to place the cross stitch on, and roll from one edge to the other. Leave this for 5-15 minutes depending on the size of the piece (the larger pieces need longer, but if you’ve used plastic canvas it needs at least 20 minutes).


Once the time is up unrolled. This stage could have a whole entry devoted to itself, there are a lot of different ways to do it, and people have come up with some creative ideas. However, I’ll tell you two ways. The idea here is to stretch the canvas out again.

Most people call this pinning as, you guessed it, there are pins involved. The first way does involve pins, but if you don’t have any to hand, move to the second option. You want to have a flat surface you can pin. I know that might be unlikely in some houses, so you can also use a flat bit of aida leftover (or even a bedsheet). If your backing is fabric, stretch that out first to make sure it’s flat. Then take your cross stitch and place it on top. Put a pin in a corner. Then in the opposite corner pull it as far as possible, and pin it. Do this all the way around the cross stitch. You should put a pin every inch/2 cm around the edge. Then let it dry some more! It’s likely to take about 2 days to dry fully.

No pins? No problem. Get two pegs and roll your project on its longest side. Do it tightly so there is a 1 cm gap in the center. Then pin the edges down so the role holds. This method uses the aida against itself, meaning it can’t warp. But it also means it takes AGES to dry. I would give it at least a week before you unroll. I would also make sure you put it somewhere dry and breezy instead of damp and humid.


So its washed, great. Now it won’t get dirty in the sun. However what happens if you accidentally spill something on it? If its something like fruit juice it will stain. However, there is a super-easy way to stop this. Ironing. Basically it heats the threads up enough that they secrete their own natural oils, which seal the threads (this is how sheep stay dry if you’ve ever wondered). But if you throw the iron on top of your cross stitch it’s going to flatten it, so let’s go about this the right way.

Get a towel and dampen it slightly. You could do this under the tap, but make sure it’s not dripping if you pull it taught. It’s only meant to be JUST damp. I tend to iron before the washing is fully dry, so I use a towel in the washing. Heat the iron up to the highest level, and remove the steam.
Cross stitch face up on the ironing board, towel on top. Then iron, using a large amount of pressure.

Remember I was talking about getting dirt on your finished piece? Well, now any dirt should just wash away!
Not too hard, was it? Just need to frame it now or if you have too many like me; you’ll need to store it somewhere.

Fifth Element Multipass Cross Stitch by Lord Libidan

Fifth Element Multipass Cross Stitch by Lord Libidan

Title: Multipass
Date Completed: June 2016
Design: Lord Libidan
Count: 14
Canvas: Black
Colors: 18
Film: The Fifth Element
My all-time favorite movie is the fifth element, and in the past, I’ve stitched a few things, such as the ZF-1 blueprint cross stitch. I finally decided to buy the remastered version and watched it again, and it was roughly the same time when loot crate were sending out their multipass props, and I knew I had to stitch one up. It’s based on the screen accurate model, which has some unique data in it; like leelo being classed as a man…
I tried to match the details as best I could, however, I couldn’t resist; in the end, I had to pick up one of those loot crate props.

Create your own free Pokemon cross stitch pattern online

Porygon Cross Stitch by Aime Cox (source:

Aime Cox of originally wrote this super sweet post on how to do free Pokemon cross stitch patterns yourself online. Not only is it a great guide, but it uses Porygon as an example! However, if you just want a quick Pokemon pattern, I have free Pokemon cross stitch patterns too

I love Pokémon, nowhere near as much as I love Digimon but that might well be another post. My boyfriend Alex also loves Pokémon, probably more than I do and probably more than the non-nerd society thinks a 28-year old man should.

As I’m such a bitchin’ girlfriend, I decided to create a Pokémon cross stitch for Alex to make up for being a bit cruddy at chores, working all the time and worst of all, dual-screening during Masterchef. So, Project Porygon was born.

Porygon Cross Stitch by Aime Cox (source:
Porygon Cross Stitch by Aime Cox (source:

Project Porygon!

Before I get started, I must mention that there are some alternatives available, Makibird-Stitching on DeviantArt has created some spiffing patterns that you can download for personal use.
You can also pay for templates from various Etsy stores, but I’m a much bigger fan of investing about 15 minutes to save myself some Dolla Dolla bill y’all.

In my previous post, I mentioned how searching for ‘sprites’ through Google images can help you find some really simple cross stitch patterns for beginners.

This method can also be used to create your own not-so-simple Pokémon cross stitch patterns.

1. Find a good source of Pokémon sprites

There’s literally a truck-load available. I like this one, and this one. Visit one of these links, and find an angle of a Pokémon that appeals to you. I chose the one in the triangle below.

Finding Porygon sprites online (source:
Finding Porygon sprites online (source:

Generation 4 was a strong one for Porygon.

Right-click, or drag and drop, to save the sprite to your desktop.

2. Convert the sprite to a JPG

Most of the sprites available are PNGs, the next program we’re going to use can’t cope with transparent backgrounds so it’s important to convert the file in order to have a white background.

If you’re on a Mac, you can open the file in Preview, select ‘Duplicate’ and then change the file format to JPG.

If you’re on a PC, you can do the same in MS Paint by opening the file and selecting ‘Save As’. Again, you need to choose ‘JPG’ from the drop-down.

You could also use these opportunities to trim any excess white space off the image – this will make your pattern easier in the long run.

Saving online Porygon image as a PNG (source:
Saving online Porygon image as a PNG (source:

3. Upload to My Photo Cross Stitch

This site is so cool considering it’s totally free. Visit this link and select ‘Advanced’ from the primary navigation at the top of the page.

Now, click ‘Select Image’ and upload your shiny new JPG. There’s a field to add the maximum number of thread colors. Be prepared to play around with this as each Pokémon is different. I find 5-8 is enough.

Pick colored boxes or symbols, or both, I like colored boxes but each to their own. Then simply select ‘Make Pattern’ et voilà! A beautiful pattern that you can download as a PDF, print or save it to a cloud drive for use on the road.

Porygon Cross Stitch unframed by Aime Cox (source:
Porygon Cross Stitch unframed by Aime Cox (source:

Porygon cross stitch final piece, still working out what to do with it.

And that’s it. Let me know in the comments how you got on with creating your own pattern!
Looking for something else? Check out our list of free cross stitch patterns for more.

How do I make a free video game cross stitch pattern?

Pikachu cross stitch pattern missing stitch fixed example

I went over how to make a cross stitch pattern a few weeks ago, however, if you want to make a video game cross stitch, you actually have a slightly different set of options.

There are a few reasons for this, but the main ones are:

  • You can edit your pattern heavily
  • You work on a very small scale
  • You work with a limited color palette

In short, you’re making far more of the pattern than you would normally. In the below example I’m going to go through the whole guide using a space invader being eaten by Pacman.

Pacman eating space invader free pattern

Collecting your sprites

If you weren’t aware, the little characters in video games are called sprites. And the first step for any project is to get the sprites needed for your project. There are loads of dedicated sprite websites out there such as The Spriters Resource and Sprite Database, you could always search google images for the relevant characters like I have.
However you do it, make sure you save your images as PNG. This is to make sure the image quality is still super high.

Space Invader and Pacman Sprite

Resize your images

The chances are good that your sprites are the correct size to start, however, you’ll want to zoom in on the sprite to check, I would suggest something like paint, but Photoshop works well too.
You’re looking for is one pixel being over more than one pixel when zoomed in. If this is the case, you need to resize the image down to make sure its perfect. As you can see in the image below, we’ve resized the Space Invader. However, both pixel characters look good together, but I want an image where it looks like Pacman is eating the Invader, so I’ve made Pacman bigger.

Resized sprites

Image editing

In the example below, I’m happy with the image I have, however, this would be the time you may way to change things. This could be changing the hair color, adding parts, removing parts or adding a background. The options are yours.
The great thing about video game cross stitch is you can do ANYTHING to the sprites you want.

Pattern creation

So now you have to make a choice, and it’s based on colors. One way (option 1) we’ll manually pick the colors out, the other way (option 2) this will all be done for us.
Colors are very important for any pattern if one color is slightly off, it ruins the look, however in video game cross stitch this is even more important, as the color of Pikachu is THAT yellow, so you need to make sure its perfect. There are two questions I ask myself; how many colors are there? and Will an off-color ruin it?
If the answer is more than 20 colors and it won’t ruin the pattern to have one off-color, then go for option 2. Otherwise, always go option 1.

Option 1

You’re willing to pick out your own colors; great! This is how I do most of my patterns. The even better bit about this, however, is you can do it all from your image editing program. The first thing you need to do is to check the options. You’ll see that you can add a grid over your image. Well, this is the grid of your fabric, you’ve just made a pattern!

pattern example

But you do still need to pick colors. This is where a pattern chart comes in handy; you can see one here for DMC threads. You now need to select each color and pick a thread. Once you’re done, you can start stitching!

Option 2

The second option is a lot easier. We’re going to use an online pattern maker called
It’s super easy to use, just save your image, upload it, and it spits out the pattern, colors and all!

And that’s it! Easy.
Looking for something else? Check out our list of free cross stitch patterns for more.