Cross Stitch Fabric Types

Aida/Java

Aida (sometimes called Java cloth) was invented in 1890 specifically for cross stitch and counted cross stitch. As a result, it’s the most widely used fabric for cross stitch, and is very likely to be the type you’re using.
It’s made up of regular holes on a semi-rigid starch-heavy cotton. It allows you to cross stitch in perfect squares by using the holes given without the fabric warping and becoming uneven.
They come in different size counts, anywhere from 10 to 32; however, they are most commonly found in 14-count and between 12 and 18 counts. Plenty of colors are available, and we’re starting to see more and more patterns being sold, too. These can include whimsical patterns or just easy count guidelines, which mean you don’t have to grid your fabric.
You can also print on aida fabric to make custom designs!

Magic Guide Fabric

A specific type of aida fabric, magic guide from DMC has blocks of 10 stitches marked out with colored threads. This means that when you look at your pattern, which is usually broken into 10×10 blocks, you can stitch directly into the blocks on the fabric, meaning a reduced chance of accidentally counting wrong, a common cross stitch mistake. The fabric avoids you having to grid your own fabric.
These colored threads then turn to white when washed.

This fabric type only comes in white (with blue or red threads marking out blocks), and is only sold in 14 count.

Pre-Gridded Fabric

Other companies tried to emulate DMC’s Magic Guide Fabric, resulting in a series of different pre-gridded fabrics. These fabrics all have similar functions to the Magic Guide fabric, but differ slightly in the ways to remove the colored lines.
Some fabrics, such as Zweigarts, need to be heated to change color, others need to be washed and heated, and others still have threads you can pull out from the fabric.

Due to the competitive nature of the gridded fabric field, pre-gridded fabrics can come in various counts, colors, and designs. However, be aware to always purchase a good quality fabric brand, as many of these pre-gridded fabrics can be hard to wash out if of poor quality, or old.

Evenweave

Evenweave is a combination of multiple fabric types. Officially, aida is a type of linen, but with added starch and even spacing. Evenweave, however, is linen with even spacing, but no starch. The image here shows that whilst Evenweave is normally a much higher count, it can vary from 18 to 32.
It gives more freedom than linen, always comes in equal spacing, and comes in just as many counts and colors.

However, unlike aida, which stays together due to the starch, evenweave can pull apart, meaning you either have to stitch 1 over 2, or adjust your stitching technique to avoid damage. Evenweave must ALWAYS be stitched in a frame, and not in the hand.

Hardanger

Hardanger is very similar to aida; however, it is 100% cotton and comes without starch, meaning it’s very easy to stretch and warp. Aida is essentially an easier-to-use hardanger.
It only comes in 22 count; however, it’s equally popular to cross stitch “1 over 2” essentially giving you 11 count as well. Just be aware that if you stitch “1 over 1” you have to use the Danish style of stitching.
Before 1986, this was the most common fabric for cross stitch, and most historic examples of cross stitch are on Hardanger. Since the invention of aida, Hardanger has dropped massively in popularity and is very rare currently.

Murano

Many people in cross stitch communities refer to Murano fabric, which is a commonly used evenweave fabric from Zweigart. It comes in 32 count.

Linen

Linen is a very traditional fabric used for embroidery, and is made up of flax (a plant).
It can come in a large variety of types, with smaller or larger holes; however, it’s normally found as a 22 to 36 count. Much like hardanger, it’s unstarched, meaning you can easily pull it apart or warp it. It’s suggested you use a good cross stitch frame to keep even pressure, but you will have to stitch in either the Danish way or stitch “1 over 2”, as threads can slip under the fibers of flax in the fabric.
Also, be aware that linen may not have equal spacing, meaning your stitches may not be perfectly square. Framing the fabric poorly can also cause this issue.

Perforated Card

A specialty fabric, that is actually card, or plastic. It’s arranged like aida with evenly spaced holes, and is usually used for cross stitching on card fronts. This type of fabric cannot be framed and needs to be treated carefully when used, as it will easily deform, fold, and get dirty. The card type cannot be washed either, meaning this is usually only used for small cross stitches.

Many people often incorrectly refer to perforated plastic as plastic canvas, but this is incorrect.

Plastic Canvas

Going the other way for a specialist thread, plastic canvas is made to be stiff, so you can make 3D objects. It comes in a variety of types, as seen in the image, and some plastics are stiffer than others, meaning you can use them for different purposes. They come in 14 count normally; however, they can also be sold in 16, 18, and 22 counts.
An example of what can be achieved with plastic canvas is my transforming cross stitch robot.
Plastic canvas is normally only in a semi-transparent white color, but recently has been sold in black and other bolder colors. You can see through the cross stitches onto the canvas, so please select a color appropriate to your design.

Soluble Canvas

Soluble canvas is similar to waste canvas, but unlike waste canvas, which pulls apart when wet, soluble canvas dissolves when wet.
It’s a very plastic-feeling material made from starch, which can be hard to stitch on at first as it’s so thin and warps far more easily than other cross stitch fabrics. Its use is to simply give a guide for where to stitch, rather than be a canvas in itself, as you’re meant to use soluble canvas on objects or other fabrics. It’s very mobile, so you can stitch on objects with lots of curves and shapes in particular. It’s always sold in 14-count.

Vinyl Canvas/Aida

Vinyl canvas, sometimes referred to as vinyl aida, is simply an aida-like fabric that is made up of vinyl instead of fabric threads.

There are two main types of this vinyl material, one which is strips of vinyl (such as the image) and another, which is ‘threads’ of vinyl made up to look similar to aida. Both types come in a multitude of counts and colors, and can be readily washed. They do not need to be in a frame, and offer a slightly stiffer fabric than aida.
This style of fabric has become increasingly popular over the last decade.

Waste Canvas

A true specialist fabric, waste canvas is made to pull it apart when wet.

It’s effectively a type of aida, but with larger holes and special starch that washes out. You wash the work, and then pull each thread of fabric out one by one. It usually only comes in 14 count, but can be found at higher counts occasionally. Please make sure you have the correct canvas before you start, as many people have made the mistake, and aida cannot be pulled apart.

Despite its very specific purpose, you can still cross stitch objects without waste canvas.

Have you seen any other types of cross stitch canvas you want us to look at? Drop us a comment below!

Happy stitching,
Lord Libidan